Category Archives: CW aka Morse

Attempting to understand wireless telegraphy

The Morserino-M32 Reborn

Back in 2024, I wrote about the Morserino CW keyer and trainer, bemoaning that although it looked ideal for my needs it was no longer available due to vital components being discontinued. Note the spelling – don’t put in an ‘h’, as it may take you to a dodgy website.

Whilst researching the QRP Labs Transceiver kit, I noticed (somewhat tucked away, it has to be said) that QRP Labs had the Morserino M32 Pocket for sale for $80.  Yes, they have acquired the licence to manufacture an updated version of this device in a ‘pocket portable’ version.  Since I was buying the QMX+ transceiver kit and paying for delivery, it was a no-brainer to add the Morserino to my order.

I haven’t yet had much time to investigate all its features, but I have tried the capacitative keyer in iambic mode B (the default) and it is delightful. It shows its interpretation of what you are keying and it can also play random morse characters, words, call signs, etc, etc, for practice copying.  I’ve been neglecting my keying and I can see that I’m going to make a lot of use of it.

Because the keys are capacitative, they’re not vulnerable to rough handling, whilst the feel is not much different from the mechanical paddles of my keyer, which are set to a very light touch as recommended by the experts at my club. However, the device is very light and doesn’t have any feet, so will slip around the table unless held down.

It can run from an internal rechargeable cell, so it really is a pocket device. For scale, it is about 12 cm long, 5cm wide and 2.3 cm high
( ~ 4¾ x 2 x 1 inches). (The red labels are mine!)

 

Morserino showing battery
Morserino showing battery

You have to buy the internal cell yourself, as they can’t send them by courier: it’s an AA size 14500 Li-ion 3.7 v cell with a ‘button’ end, which I had to get from Ebay.  Be careful, as there are a variety of similar cells which have different voltages. You have to unscrew the four screws on the base and lift out the circuit board to fit the cell. When replacing it, ensure that the three wires to the paddle don’t obstruct the speaker or the input knob.

My battery was partially-charged and took some hours to recharge.  Plug a USB C cable to an ordinary cell phone charge and remember to switch the battery switch ON, otherwise it doesn’t recharge.

Morserino connectors
Morserino connectors

My M32 Pocket came with firmware version 7 installed but they are now on version 8 which has the Morse learning games and various other improvements. I was able to update the firmware easily from my PC where I have the Google Chrome browser installed. Go to the https://www.morserino.info website and then use a proper data cable to connect the USB port of the M32 Pocket to a USB port of the computer.

Follow the on-screen instructions on the web page to install the required update. You have to say which computer port to connect to.  In my case it was COM3 (Java). It took a few moments to download and install, then the device restarted, giving access to the new features.

Morserino showing battery switch
Morserino showing battery switch

I am writing a separate blog about my initial experience with using it.

IZ2UUF Morse Koch CW App

It’s April Fool’s Day, so a good time to review my progress with learning Morse.

I’ve been attending the Sutton and Cheam Radio Society’s regular Monday evening meetings, where a group of us are trying to improve our CW.  Their shack is on top of Epsom Downs, in an excellent location with long uninterrupted views north and south. They’ve got a decent long wire dipole HF antenna and a couple of vertical VHF antennas.  We have been able to hold QSOs with a large number of European stations.

IZ2UUF Morse Koch CW  Android app

I realise that I need 20 wpm to be able to hold QSOs and I’m not getting there using LCWO, so I’ve just started to use IZ2UUF Morse Koch CW, which is an Android app.

I’m finding it excellent. You can select the number of characters (which build up in the same order as LCWO or its own order), the speed and the length of the test.  It sends them on the phone  both in Morse and letters on the screen.  The nice thing is that it repeats each group three times, which is brilliant when you need to catch something subtle.  After each group, it then speaks the characters, so you don’t need to look at the phone, which is good if you’re using headphones whilst walking, for example.

I think I’m making progress.  I’m running it at 20 wpm since I do know at least 40 characters.  My main problem at that speed is confusion between a character and its inverse, such as F and L or K and R.

Obviously at that speed you can’t think about each character, they just have to trigger the correct response.  This is where the repetition is very helpful.

At present I’m using the free version, which has all the features I need right now. I’m thinking of upgrading to the PRO version so that I can do the simulated QSO exercises.

The author of this App is to be highly commended for what must be the best Morse app out there.

The Practical Telegraphist – Review

The Practical Telegraphist  is a translation by Chris Rutkowski, NW6V, an American expert on CW telegraphy, of a book written in 1851 by Clemens Gerke, an ‘Inspector of the electro-magnetic telegraph at Hamburg’.

Gerke is of international importance, as he re-wrote Morse’s arrangement of the code into a version very similar to the current International version of the Morse alphabet.

The book is 100 pages long and some of the translation (or maybe the original text) is idiosyncratic – for example, we are told that they put condoms on the bottom of telegraph poles as, ahem, a preservative!

The translation mainly uses American units (inches and miles): it is not clear whether the original used metric units, which were becoming universal in Europe at that time, but a variety of other units occasionally appear, perhaps where Gerke used traditional units of uncertain value.

Gerke’s telegraph was a considerable undertaking, running from the coast at Cuxhaven to Hamburg, a distance of 130 km or 80 miles, via intermediate stations. There was also a line from Hamburg to Berlin, 290 km or 180 miles.  He mentions other telegraphs that had been spreading everywhere over the preceding ten years, along with the development of the railways, so there was a significant network by 1851.

Electro-galvanic Batteries

The first chapter describes in detail the construction of ‘electro-galvanic’ batteries for use in telegraphy.  These make use of quite dangerous chemicals like hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid, nitric acid, mercury, with plates made of zinc and copper for the electrodes.  He preferred the ‘Daniel Cell’ where the inner negative pole is a copper cylinder housed inside a porous clay pot (best made in the royal porcelain factory in Berlin), filled with copper sulphate solution.  The outer pole is a zinc cylinder surrounded by salt water or dilute sulphuric acid and the whole is contained in a ‘strong beer glass’! (They must have liked their beer, because the glasses were about 4 inches in diameter and filled 5 inches high!)

This cell produces an EMF of about 1 volt, and he makes it clear that you need several of these ‘side-by-side’, connected in series, but it seems that the exact number required was a matter of some trial and error.  He recommends that batteries are installed in series at both ends of the line to ensure there is enough power for the writing machines.  It seems that often a sensitive relay (hitherto a secret revolutionary device) was installed in the line and the relay then drives the writing machine with power from the local battery.

Insulation

A big headache was to obtain reliable insulation of the line.  Most of the line was carried on the pine telegraph poles with which we are familiar, 23 feet above the ground and 150 yards apart, and using glass insulators.  However, these were prone to cracking or to damage from small boys throwing stones at them!  Where it was necessary to use an underground line, usually the copper line (stated to be almost ¼ inch diameter) was carried inside a metal tube filled with gutta-percha, a type of latex.  Gerke gives a lot of detail about how to preserve this material from degradation, which was a serious problem.

Writing Instruments

Much of the rest of the book deals with the arrangement of the telegraph lines and setting up the ‘writing instrument’ which used a stylus depressed by an electromagnet to impress indentations on a paper tape.

Telluric Activity

The system suffered greatly from interference which he largely attributes to  ‘telluric currents’, because they only use a single wire to connect telegraph stations, with the return path being via the ground.  I had not appreciated that natural ‘telluric currents’ flow through the ground, being induced by lightning, the earth’s magnetic field and other effects. The telegraph uses low voltage and current, so it does not take much telluric and atmospheric influence to upset the delicate balance of the electromagnets in the telegraph’s detectors.  Gerke makes it clear that a principal skill of a telegraphist was to constantly adjust the balance of the detectors.

Instrumentation was at best crude and in many cases he suggests touching the ends of the wires to the tongue to detect the presence of galvanic fluid.

Improving the code

The problem with Morse’s (or same say his colleague Vail’s) version of the code was that some characters used longer than standard dashes, whilst others had gaps between the dots.  Moreover, some letters important in German (especially umlauted ä, ö and ü) had no corresponding code  The variable-length dashes and the intra-letter pauses were both difficult to key and susceptible to misinterpretation especially on a noisy line.

A Professor Steinheil (who constructed several railway telegraphs in Germany) devised an alternative code which used fewer elements (dots and dashes) and avoided the intra-letter spaces of Morse’s, but it had several serious defects.  In particular, it used the same code (––·) for letters c, k and q,  the same code for (–·) for d and t, and the same code (–··) for f, v and 5, whilst omitting codes for the umlauted vowels, for x and for y.  Gerke says this is because Steinheil never wanted to use more than four elements in each letter.

Gerke’s version of Morse Code

Gerke says that his code, largely the same as Morse’s, includes all the letters, including the umlauted vowels important in German, whilst overall not needing more bits of time than Steinheil’s.  Moreover, he says, he took into account the frequency of use of letters (from consultation with typesetters), which had not been considered by Steinheil, and that in practice it would be faster to write using his code.  Although he doesn’t say how many words per minute his telegraphists could accomplish, he says that this was as fast as ordinary writing with a pen (which is typically 13 to 20 wpm) and therefore quite sufficient.

The current International Morse Code is almost the same as Gerke’s.  He kept Morse’s codes for the digits, whilst the current International code use a more consistent and logical arrangement.

Interestingly, Morse, Steinheil and Gerke all omitted letter I: the current code for I is what they used for J.  Some other letters were changed for the current code, including O, P, X, Y and Z.

Conclusion

The Practical Telegraphist is now only of historical interest.  In the 1850s, they lacked much in the way of instruments, which greatly hampered their work – much investigation relied on experience, trial and error,  and testing with the tongue – but it is fascinating to see how our knowledge of electricity has developed whilst the telegraphist’s art is much the same.

Morsle Morse Game

I have just learnt about a Morse Challenge Game at https://morsle.fun/

Each day you are given a five-letter word presented initially at 40 wpm, which initially just sounded like a lot of buzzing to me.

You have to enter your guess at the letters and then any that you get right turn green.  You then get two more goes at that speed.  If you haven’t got it, the speed reduces by 5 wpm to 35 wpm and you have three more goes, and so on.  You can save your statistics and the next day there is another word.  There is also a practice mode if you are trying to improve or you don’t want to wait !

I did manage to get a word at 40 wpm!  This was partly a lucky guess, but funnily enough, the ‘shape’ of the letters did stand out.  For example, you can hear how many symbols are in each letter and perhaps which ones are long and which are short.  The real thing is that with only five letters, you can retain the overall ‘buzz’ and there is then time to think about it.  Very different from a continuous stream of traffic where you have to recognise each letter immediately.

Good fun – worth giving it a go.

Fitting a Heavy base to Hi-Mound Key

Fitting A Heavy Base

When I bought the key from Ebay, it was on a nice polished mahogany board which probably had a straight key on it previously, because it has some old screw holes and other marks.  It is also rather large for my crowded desk, and still slips about, so I need a heavy steel base like that for the CWMorse key.  That cost £26 from a ham radio shop, and the Hi-Mound key is slightly too long to fit it.

On Ebay, I found a seller who will cut steel bar to length, so I ordered a 100 mm length of 75 mm wide bar at 10 mm thick, weighing 590 grams,  for less than £7 inc delivery.

Steel Base Plate

I filed off the rough edges, cleaned off the black mill-scale and drilled four 4 mm holes to match those in the base of the key.  I bought a cobalt-alloy drill bit and was surprised how easy this was with my small battery-powered drill.

Underside of Hi-Mound Key

Once I’d removed the key from the mahogany base, I was surprised to see that the connections under the key are not protected from accidental short-circuit, so I put tape over them and then bolted it to the base-plate using 3 mm bolts, after I had first sprayed it with Silver Hammerite paint. Then I put on self-adhesive feet

Underside of Steel base-plate

This is pretty good – if the desk is free of dust and I slightly dampen the feet, it sticks very nicely to most surfaces and doesn’t wander about even under enthusiastic keying.

Hi-Mound Key on new steel base

Now it needs a cover to keep dust and dirt out  The base of the key itself is 85 by 65 mm and of course, the steel base is 100 x 75 mm.    I have been totally unable to find a plastic or metal box  with those dimensions.  I could buy some thin sheet aluminium and cut it to fit, or get some clear plastic sheet and do likewise

Key cover made from card
Key cover made from card

But pro tem I have decided to cut one out of stiff card, painted silver, as shown below.  TBH it doesn’t look very elegant and I still need to find the best way of attaching it.  I’m thinking of a magnetic catch

Twin-Paddle Morse Key

Choosing a Morse Key

I’d read that it was a good idea to be able to read morse fairly well before learning to key, because that way you learn the rhythm of the characters. I also read some of the debate between the merits of straight and iambic keys.  I’d read Chris Rutlowski’s book on CW, and he is an aficionado of high-speed straight keying. Early telegraphers suffered from ‘Glass Arm’, which is a form of RSI, from the constant rapid up-and-down motion of the arm, something that typists can also suffer.  Rutlowski claims that by developing a rhythmic style style such as he advocates, this can be avoided.

However, early telegraphers got round this by using a side-to-side key and and especially using a ‘bug’ that employs a spring mechanism to generate rapid dits.

The modern development of the ‘bug’ is the dual-paddle iambic keyer (I daren’t write Iambic because that looks like lambic!) which generates dits and dahs electronically.

Twin-Paddle Keys
CapKey

After an initial foray with a straight key, I decided to get with it and learn how to use an iambic keyer.  I made the twin-level capacitive Cap Key Keyer.  Unfortunately the CapKey keyer wasn’t very reliable probably due to mistakes I’d made in the layout of the circuit board.

CWMorseUS
Twin Paddle Morse Key

So I bought an inexpensive twin-paddle key by CWMORSE.US, available from several UK Ham stores. I paid for the steel base which is 75 x 75 x 12 mm and weighs about 530 gm  – with the weight of the key, the total is about 700 gm. It has decent rubber feet and if I wet them slightly, they stick well to the desk and don’t shuffle about.  You can adjust the two contact distances separately, but the tension has only one adjuster.  I’ve got it set to about 1mm movement on each paddle and quite a high contact resistance.  I think it works well, but I definitely perceived occasional contact bounce.  The contact works by pressing a brass contact against a central brass pillar which is not easy to see, but I clean it by pulling a piece of strong, rough paper between the contacts which brings away a little dark tarnish.

CW Morse Key with heavy steel base
Hi-Mound Twin Paddle Keys

I thought I’d see whether I could get a better key. Various radio shops have some extremely expensive keys on sale, whilst an Internet search brings up various cheap Chinese keys which didn’t seem to have any reviews and I doubted they would be better than what I have.

And then some Hi-mound twin-paddle keys started appearing on Ebay.  Some of these are again ludicrously expensive whilst others are in poor condition – presumably found in an old shack or junk shop. I did note that there are several different variations on this keyer.  For example the MK-703 has a heavy base, separate left and right paddle and contact adjusters, and a moulded transparent cover.  The MK-706 looks similar but without the additional base. I have noticed that other (more recent?) MK-70x keys only have a single tension adjuster.  Various reviews (and talking to aficionados at the radio club) showed that these are very popular, with people liking the close paddle spacing, which is about 8 mm between the outer edges of the pair of paddles, and about 4 mm between their inner edges, about half the spacing of CWMORSE key.

Hi-Mound fitted with new jack

Then a very clean – new-looking – MK-706 style came up for £65, so I jumped at it.  One downside is that it doesn’t have a cover, so I will have to find something to fit, as I want to keep it nice!

Trying out the key

Is this key better than the cheapo CWMorse one?  It certainly felt very different when I tried it. I’d increased the lever tension and reduced the contact distance on the CWMorse key, so found the lever tension far too light on the Hi-Mound, and so I increased that quite a lot.

Hi-Mound Contacts and adjusters
Adjustments

I also played around with the contact distance, which was too large on both levers, and I’ve set it closer.  This means that I can feel the levers click as they make contact. Both levers move about 0.5 mm to make contact.  The levers are quite long and flexible, but there is still enough click to give tactile feedback when they make contact. Indeed it has taken me some practice to get used to it – I didn’t like it at first and wondered if I’d made a mistake.  The contacts are properly shaped to give a distinct contact point and they don’t move up and down like the CWMORSE key, so the contact seems less prone to bounce or intermittent contact – essential for accurate keying.  I’m not sure what the contact material is and I don’t intend to investigate!

Fitting A Heavy Base

The key is on a nice polished mahogany board but this is rather large for my desk and doesn’t stabilise the key.  My next post describes how I made a heavy steel base plate for it.

Learning Morse

It’s the end of August 2025, the anniversary of me starting to learn Morse seriously. It’s time to review progress and note any lessons that I’ve learnt.

What stage have I reached?

I can read words at a speed of 15 wpm, but with delays between words, so I can’t really manage sentences at that speed. This is because I hesitate over characters, and then miss the next word.
My effective speed is more like 12 wpm.

Overall, I have put in about 2,000 lessons using the LCWO (Learn CW online) app.  This amounts to at least  200 hours of practice, or about 4 hours a week.  It feels like a lot more.

I can send with a Morse paddle and keyer, again at an effective speed of about 12 wpm, but my accuracy and rhythm leave much to be desired.  To send rhythmically, you need to be thinking ahead whilst sending, and this requires you to employ some of the brain’s ability to process characters subconsciously.  This is the same ability that you have to use in order to read Morse at anything more than a snail’s pace.

So at my stage, where I do know about 45 Morse characters, sending helps to improve my reading and vice versa.

Lessons learnt

I have been re-reading some of Chris Rutlowski‘s book on learning and using CW, which I bought a year ago.  The learning process he described made little sense to me at the time – he spends quite a lot of time describing the rhythmic nature of keying, but it isn’t possible to attain a rhythm until you can recall the characters effortlessly.

However, I now appreciate that sending accurately, even using a paddle and keyer, requires you to become much more aware of the rhythmic nature of the character train.  Unless you are aware of this, you will leave incorrect gaps between letters and words that cause confusion to the listener, especially when they’re using a decoding app.

I feel that I should have started to practice keying a little bit sooner, because both sending and reading Morse at a decent speed does require you to feel the rhythm of the characters. However, I didn’t make any progress until someone suggested the https://hamradio.solutions/vband/ website.  This lets you practice keying on a practice channel, or to open a channel with your known contacts.

I have managed a couple of QSOs over radio with friends, but I feel that I have a long way to go to be able to manage 15 wpm reliably, as this seems to be the speed that is needed for straightforward QSOs.

I intend to ‘plug on’ until I reach this stage.

First QSO attempt

I’ve been practising reading Morse using various software tools for around 11months and I’ve been practising keying for a couple of months, using a twin-paddle key.  I can read 10 wpm on a good day, and as others have found, it is slightly easier to key at the same speed, although my ‘fist’ isn’t good.

As I’ve said before, the whole purpose of radio is to communicate and I was very pleased when a friend at the local radio club suggested that we try a QSO (two-way radio contact).

Antenna and Rig

I’ve not yet tried to transmit even though I’ve had a Windom (asymmetrical dipole) antenna since October. My friend is about 10 miles from here, at a low-lying location close to the Thames.  My aerial can supposedly operate from 10 to 80 metres (28 MHz down to 3.5 MHz) although my radio can go down to 1.8 MHz.

Bands

We tried 7.010 MHz to start with, as the band was fairly quiet.  We soon found out why – propagation conditions must have been poor – I could just hear a transmission but there was too much noise for communication.

We then tried 14.005 MHz but that was very noisy.  3.505 MHz and 1.997 MHz were just as poor.  Then we tried 28.005 (i.e. the 10m band) and I received him 599 (i.e. loud and clear). But he couldn’t hear me even though I’d cranked up to 100 watts. That doesn’t make sense, as reciprocity should apply to the signal path: if his signal can reach me, my signal should reach him.

I couldn’t find anything wrong and we’d run out of time.

Trouble-shooting – the BK-IN setting

Coming back later, I realised I had probably fallen into a trap on my Yaesu FT-710.  I set its CW keyer to Elekey (Iambic) Mode B at 10 WPM and I’d set the BK-IN (break in) mode to ON.  This means that the keyer transmits as you key.  If BK-IN is off, it only produces a side-tone that lets you hear what you’re keying, but it doesn’t transmit.

Set for each band
BUT, what I hadn’t realised is that the BK-IN setting (which is set from the touch-screen menu) has to be turned ON for each band separately.  If you change bands then BK-IN won’t be on unless you have previously set it. You have to open the touch-screen menu, find the BK-IN  box and change it.  I suppose this is fail-safe, but there isn’t much indication of the setting, except that the transmission indicators on the tuning dial turn red when the transmitter is sending.

However, I’m inexperienced and I’m thinking about what I’m keying, rather than looking at the radio, so I didn’t notice this.

Accessibility of controls

Unfortunately, the touch-screen menu isn’t that easy to access and use unless you’re very familiar with the radio.  This is the downside of a radio that basically only has two knobs to adjust the settings. For example to change bands, you press the band button on top of the radio but this just brings up a screen with all the bands that can be accessed – and there are a lot.  You then touch the screen to choose the band you want.  So a lot of the settings are fiddly to reach.  Of course, by omitting lot of hardware knobs and switches, the radio can be smaller, cheaper and more reliable  but it becomes more fiddly to operate.

We have arranged another session, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed.

Sending Morse

How to practice sending morse

It is July 2025 and I’ve been learning to read Morse for 11 months. On the lcwo website, I can manage 10 wpm in plain language on a good day, but I’ve been stuck on how to learn to send.

At one time, you could practice ‘off air’ with another ham at your local radio club, but this has limitations – not least as to when you can practice.

Websites

I’ve now come across https://hamradio.solutions/vband/

This is a website that lets you practice privately using your web-browser or you can create or join a ‘channel’ to communicate with another user or users, without a radio connection.  So you can set up with a friend to practice wherever and whenever convenient.

Dongle

You need a ‘dongle’ to connect your key (using a conventional jack plug) to the USB port of the computer and you can immediately connect to the practice channel, which is private.  All the usual single and dual-paddle modes are supported, with the default being iambic-B.  In this mode, the keyer remembers any key that was pressed during the playing of the previous key.  This means that if you squeeze both keys together, you can get R, K, A, N, C or . (stop) depending on exactly which key you touch first and when you release each key.

Dual-paddle key

I have one of the cheapest dual-paddle keys I could find, with a heavy steel base so it doesn’t slide around the desk, see the photo at the top of this page. You can adjust the contact distance of each paddle and also the total pressure required.  I have set the contact distance to the smallest value that doesn’t cause inadvertent contact and a fairly high contact pressure so that you can feel the contact.

I’ve not tried any other dual-paddle keys although you can easily twice to four times as much, i.e. over £200.  The expensive keys certainly look pretty but I’d need a lot more than that to justify buying one.

How is it going?

I’m right at the earliest stage, discovering the best way to use squeeze keying. This is taking a lot of practice to understand as the timing is very critical.  I’ve got it set to 12 wpm, which is a good compromise between the character speed of 18 wpm I set for reading (but spaced to the effective speed of 9 or 10 wpm) and the speed at which I can operate the key.

The main issue I’m finding at the moment is avoiding extra dits: because it remembers the dit key being pressed whilst a dah is being emitted, it is easy to get an extra dit tagged onto characters, or even a double dit before a dah.  This means that I can’t key reliably at any speed at present.

I will report again after a bit more practice.

The Amateur Licence Conditions in 1971

It is interesting to read the Licence conditions that applied in 1971 when I took my Radio Amateur Exam.  I’m specially interest in the Morse test, which was as follows.  In essence, you had to send 36 words at 12 words per minute, and 10 five-digit groups at about 6 words per minute.

The receiving test was the same. Four corrections were allowed in the word element, and two in the digit element, both sending and receiving.

Punctuation symbols were excluded.

The Morse Test Official Requirements

In the sending tests a candidate is required to send 36 words
(averaging five letters per word) in plain language in three minutes
without uncorrected error, not more than four corrections being permitted,
and

10 five- figure groups in 1½ minutes without uncorrected error, not more than two corrections being permitted.

In the receiving tests, a candidate is required to receive 36 words
(averaging five letters per word) in plain language in three minutes, and
10 five- figure groups in 1½ minutes. Each letter or figure incorrectly
received counts as one error, A word in which more than one letter is incorrectly received counts as two errors. More than four errors in plain language and more than two errors in the figure test will result in failure .
The tests will not include punctuation or other symbols. The foregoing particulars are summarised in the following table:-